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Gutter Flashing Questions and Answers
Below are some of the questions I have been ask, concerning gutter flashing.
Proper gutter installation plays a very important role in the maintenance of your home. Most homeowners don't spend a lot of time thinking about their gutters, but understanding their importance may prevent you some costly home repair bills in the future.
What is drip-edge roof flashing, and why do I need it?
A proper drip-edge roof flashing should be installed across the roofs bottom edge by the roofer before the shingles are installed. The primary functions of the drip edge flashing is to keep water from wicking back under the shingles and to protect the fascia boards from the water dripping off the roof.
A secondary function is to seal the gap from the roofing shingles to the gutter, so the rain water does not dribble behind the gutter. That would cause dry-rot to the wood that the gutter is attached to, causing the gutters to come loose.
The lower edge of a roof should extend beyond the fascia board by about 3/4 inch so that runoff drains into the gutters. On a shallow pitched roof, water will wick back up under the shingles and drip behind the gutters, leading to rotted roof sheathing and fascia, stained siding.
The problem can be fixed by installing sheet metal drip edge flashing, which is available at most all lumberyards and home centers. Drip edge flashing usually comes in 10 foot sections and is available in a variety of different profiles. A wider face drip edge (at least 1 1/2") is recommended. Slip the flashing all the way under the first course of roof shingles. Make sure the lower edge extends over the gutters.
Why does water drip between the fascia and the back of the gutter?
This problem can be easily solved by installing the back of the gutter under the drip edge flashing.
On some installations, in order to maintain the proper gutter slope, the back edge of the gutter may drop slightly below the drip edge flange. In this case, a flashing extender strip should be installed to insure that no water will leak behind the gutter.
How Do You Replace Vinyl Siding?
Vinyl siding repair is tough, but not indestructible. If a falling branch or a well-hit baseball has cracked a piece of your siding, you can make it as good as new in about 15 minutes with a zip tool and a replacement piece. It’s as simple as unzipping the damaged piece and snapping in a new one. Get this vinyl siding repair kit zip tool on Amazon.
Starting at one end of the damaged piece, push the end of the zip siding removal tool up under the siding until you feel it hook the bottom lip (Photo 1). Pull the zip tool downward and out to unhook the bottom lip, then slide it along the edge, pulling the siding out as you go. Then unzip any pieces above the damaged piece. Hold them out of the way with your elbow while you pry out the nails that hold the damaged piece in place (Photo 2).
Slide the replacement piece up into place, pushing up until the lower lip locks into the piece below it. Drive 1-1/4-in. roofing nails through the nailing flange. Space them about every 16 in. (near the old nail holes). Nail in the center of the nailing slot and leave about 1/32 in. of space between the nail head and the siding so the vinyl can move freely. Don’t nail the heads tightly or the siding will buckle when it warms up.
With the new piece nailed, use the zip tool to lock the upper piece down over it. Start at one end and pull the lip down, twisting the siding removal tool slightly to force the leading edge down (Photo 3). Slide the zip tool along, pushing in on the vinyl just behind the siding removal tool with your other hand so it snaps into place.
It’s best to repair vinyl in warm weather. In temperatures below freezing, it becomes less flexible and may crack.
The downside of replacing older vinyl siding is that it can be hard to match the style and color, and siding rarely has any identifying marks. The best way to get a replacement piece is to take the broken piece to vinyl siding distributors in your area and find the closest match. If the old vinyl has faded or you can’t find the right color, take the broken piece to a paint store and have the color matched. Paint the replacement piece with one coat of top-quality acrylic primer followed by acrylic house paint—acrylic paint will flex with the movement of the vinyl.
Required Tools for this How to Remove Vinyl Siding Project
Have the necessary tools for this DIY how to remove vinyl siding project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.
Required Materials for this How to Remove Vinyl Siding Project
Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list.